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Post by hellraiser on Apr 8, 2008 17:20:16 GMT -5
i sold the 4-link to a buddy of mine that is putting bags on his s-10, cuz it was a triangulated 4 link, cuz i was planning on bagging the bug but now that im not, im affraid it would have too much body roll, it would be better if it were a parellel 4 link set up. but i may just throw some of those bug shocks on ther for the time being
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Apr 9, 2008 8:41:22 GMT -5
While you're still in school you could see if you can grab up some 1" .125 steel tubing and some plate and make a parallel 4-link. Then get some weld in bungs are rod ends. I sure you could find some at a decent price online. Then go with the bug coil over shocks until you could afford an upgrade. One way to do it.
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Post by hellraiser on Apr 9, 2008 17:25:20 GMT -5
ya i simple way i came up with is to get some 2" X 1.5" square, and weld a pipe in one end so that bushings out of the leafs will go in and just use the stock leaf mounts to make trailing arms and then make a traction bar.
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Post by hellraiser on Apr 29, 2008 23:21:44 GMT -5
well i finaly started mocking up the floor board with some cardboard and let me tell u, its a pain in the ass haha
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on May 1, 2008 13:46:23 GMT -5
LOL! Cool, glad to hear you're back at it! Pics please!
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Post by hellraiser on May 5, 2008 20:21:34 GMT -5
ya ill have pics soon
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Post by hellraiser on May 11, 2008 23:49:57 GMT -5
here im starting the mock up of the floor pan and trans hump, but i think i may just use a trans hump out of a 72 chevy that i have.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on May 12, 2008 9:19:26 GMT -5
An easy way to do the trans "hump", other than getting it from a donor vehicle, would be to make it kinda like a half cone shape. Keep it up!
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Post by lookatme on May 12, 2008 14:29:09 GMT -5
your floor is coming along good, just keep after it with the cardboar, it takes a while to get it right. just keep cutting and taping until you get it right.
the more time you spend with the cardboard, the easier the metal should go.
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Post by hellraiser on May 13, 2008 22:50:46 GMT -5
ya its a pain in the ass haha,a but i think ima hold off on the trans hump and just do my fire wall and floor boards, cuz i may just buy a tapered one piece trans hump form one of these custom hot rod places.
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Post by lookatme on May 13, 2008 23:01:18 GMT -5
it is a HUGE pain to get it right. but its just a matter of cutting and fitting, and cutting again, until it either A) gets hacked beyond recognition, or B) starts fitting well enough that you can refine THAT design again. its a slow painstaking process. just leave extra material when you trim.
measure twice and keep cutting.
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Post by hellraiser on May 14, 2008 0:45:15 GMT -5
ya its realy frustrating lol
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Post by hellraiser on May 14, 2008 17:20:59 GMT -5
well i redid the fire wall so its one piece now and im not going to have the trans hump for the time being, tomorrow hopfully ill get some of the metal cut and set in place.
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Post by lookatme on May 14, 2008 21:23:54 GMT -5
dont get in a hurry and start cutting metal.
you want to have your templates completely done before you start on the metal. it is WAAAAAY more frustrating to cut out work that you have already done. with cardboard and posterboard its not a big deal.
TRUST ME........... get everything done in posterboard first. its cheaper than metal and its easier to work too. dont worry about how many pieces your templates are, just make lots of notes with sharpies, and put connecting points with a to a and b to b on your templates. and when you piece two or three seperate sides as one piece, write it down on it. two peices are easier to work than one.
its gonna be a good day. chris.
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Post by hellraiser on May 15, 2008 17:02:56 GMT -5
it would have been nice to do the entire thing in templates but ive only got maybe 4 more days to work on the bug and i have no way to cut the metal at home. but just to let all of u know, the templates worked out great, i had to do some minor trimming to get it to fit exact. so here they r, all cut out by hand, by "yours truely" ive still gotta cut away the rest behind the yoke, to make room for the drive line, but one piece is easier, once its welded in place and braced up then ill cut the back out. tell me what u think so far.
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