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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 20, 2009 10:18:19 GMT -5
Cool model. Kinda reminds me of this bug.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 20, 2009 10:21:20 GMT -5
Sounds great. I can't wait to see the frame come together.
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Post by notchman on Oct 25, 2009 18:31:36 GMT -5
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Post by notchman on Oct 25, 2009 18:36:24 GMT -5
I don't know how many of you might be interested, but I am going to post what I'm doing concerning the frame table under the General Discussion, and I'll name it something witty...like..."frame table project."
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Post by notchman on Oct 25, 2009 18:43:15 GMT -5
I am wanting to turn the front end into a flip-up front end. I will do this by joining the fenders, apron and hood together in all one piece, either by bolting or welding, and creaing a hinge along the front. Here's my number on problem... Some people don't realize at first that the bottom edge of the fender along the door will hit the door when the front end is flipped up. I started thinking about this and made some marks on the sheet metal. I think however that I can create a hinge in the front that will bring the whole front end out away from the car horizontally first. This way the fenders will clear the doors and I can keep the fenders whole. Let's say that I will remove a couple of pins in the front that will allow me to pick up the front end along the front apron. As I pick up on this part of the hood, it will come up and then roll back down thereby moving the entire hood horizontilly away from the doors by 3 to 5 inches. A double hinge so to speak. Has anyone ever made this type of hinge before?
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 26, 2009 10:04:07 GMT -5
Looking good. Don't they make a one piece fiberglass flip hood for your application? Or are you just wanting it to be metal? Either way, I like the idea of a flip hood.
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Post by notchman on Oct 26, 2009 11:18:10 GMT -5
Fiberglass costs money and creates certain mounting problems. I'm more familiar with metal, can manipulate it, and enjoy a good challenge.
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paulj
Full Member
Posts: 143
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Post by paulj on Oct 26, 2009 11:57:45 GMT -5
I like the all steel front end better. How far would the front end have to slide forward so the fenders (uncut) would clear the doors? I know it would complicate the hinge set up but would keep the front end looking stock and not have that diagonal cut running down the fender.
Depending on the hinge point you may only need an inch or so.
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Post by notchman on Oct 26, 2009 13:23:49 GMT -5
That's what I'm thinking Paul...just a couple of inches. I will get the front end parts welded up and then mock up the tilt using the frame table as a base. It will be easier to see what it will need once I get that done. I can picture the hinge setup in my mind, it's getting that onto paper or into a finshed piece that's going to be the problem. Room under the hood will no doubt present a problem to work around too as far as the finished product goes.
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Post by notchman on Dec 14, 2009 10:31:23 GMT -5
I got some work done on the frame jig. I updated the post in General Discussions with some pics. I'd love your feedback.
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Post by murphytj on Dec 14, 2009 18:25:54 GMT -5
For your front end, whu not allow the whole front end to move forward on a channel by a few inches then tilt forward?
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Post by notchman on Dec 15, 2009 10:04:33 GMT -5
That's one of the two options I see using Tom, and it may be simpler to build. Again, the only problem will be having enough room in the front to allow for a piece of steel to slide along the frame rails in the front. There's also going to be a balance of movement between clearing the door and clearing the tire on the other side of the skirt. I have a drawing of it. I'll scan it in and post it for your feedback.
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Post by notchman on Mar 3, 2010 16:09:19 GMT -5
Yeah! Just ordered my Mustang II front suspension today. It's a universal 56 1/2" Heidt's. I ordered the narrowed tubular a-arms, with chrome coil overs and springs, chrome manual streering rack, and 11" vented rotors.
Once I confirm the width of the crossmember and where the front frame rails will need to be, I can measure and figure where the real frame rails will end up. Then I can order the rearend and the wheels.
I also got a deal on a Hobart 250ci plasma cutter. Can cut 1/4" steel, runs on 120 volt and has a built in air compressor. Got it for less than $800 from Northern Tool. (They should pay me for these types of endorsements!)
By the time I get the frame table ready I should have everything ordered and in stock. Then I can finally start building the frame.
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paulj
Full Member
Posts: 143
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Post by paulj on Mar 3, 2010 18:38:46 GMT -5
Good deal! This is one project I will be following closely.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Mar 4, 2010 8:50:19 GMT -5
That's great news! I can't wait to see the project unfold.
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