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Post by Mock1racer on Oct 14, 2008 12:45:39 GMT -5
When you start with the Mig, depending on mat thickness, use stitch welds to weld out the sheetmetal. meaning, weld an inch or two here , then move to a different location and do the same thing until you have it solid. What this does is keep the sheetmetal from warping and you end up with a straight corner or butt weld. Another thing you can do to help with keeping it straight is when you tack it together, put your tacks about an inch apart,that will keep the metal from separating in the weld process. Also, when you start welding for the first time on thin gauge with the mig,start out with a slightly cold weld ,( not too cold though) until you get used to doing it , it's easier to grind down a weld than try to fill holes cause you blew through.
One more thing, if you booger up a weld, grind it off and start over again so you get good penetration. Mig does not weld like stick ,so it won't burn through itself like stick will, Mig's faster movment does'nt have time to burn that much metal at once. I weld pipe all day and i use stick rods, they burn alot hotter than a mig. Stick is mostly used for structure, (thick stuff!)
and remember, practice makes purfect.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 15, 2008 10:15:24 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice! I've learned about warping issues online, but experienced it myself hands on welding up these fenders. Some of the metal strips warped a some, but fixable with a little body filler. Sounds like a good plan, starting out cold and working from there. I'll tack it all up so it'll stay like I want then I'll either stitch weld it up moving to different spot to prevent warping, or I'll tack and move a couple inches and just repeat the process between kinda how the guy from sweden did his. I guess I can play with both methods on scrap to see what I prefer.
Lord knows I've made some boogers. I just grind them out and do it until it looks good or isn't porous looking yet has good fusion. But that's been with the structural welds using the stick welder. From what I understand, stick welding is more difficult and I should be able to easily mig weld having learned stick first. There's more of a learning curve. Well, what I've been told. Stick welding hasn't exactly been easy, but I got the hang of it.
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Roadrunna
Full Member
Pissin off the purists
Posts: 183
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Post by Roadrunna on Oct 15, 2008 12:19:21 GMT -5
Mig is easy & if you can stick weld there shouldn't be a problem at all. So much less to think about and no need to strike up an arc.
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Post by Mock1racer on Oct 16, 2008 6:10:30 GMT -5
true, just gotta make sure to keep the wire lenght the same throughout the weld process.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 17, 2008 14:03:51 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice guys.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 17, 2008 14:06:06 GMT -5
My goal this weekend is to finish the metal work on the driver's side rear fender (cut / weld / grind), to get some body filler down to smoothen out the transition from the natural fender to the widened strips, and to start shaping both of them.  |
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 17, 2008 14:18:51 GMT -5
I was thinking, the only thing in the way of me mounting the radiator up front is the sway bar. I'm wandering if I could cut it a little wider than the radiator and weld some metal, say angle iron or even some round tubing, so it's out of the way. Like so...  I guess the first step would be to see if the radiator is narrower than where the bushings mount for the sway bar. |
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 17, 2008 14:23:04 GMT -5
  hmmm..... ;D |
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 17, 2008 14:24:44 GMT -5
.......  |
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 17, 2008 14:33:05 GMT -5
I'm thinking it could be cut and be tucked under the clip where the hood will latch, but above the louvers.  |
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Post by Mock1racer on Oct 20, 2008 5:55:39 GMT -5
Looks like it might fit in front of the bar.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 20, 2008 9:16:52 GMT -5
I'll have to check again, but it seemed like the rad was too deep. Doesn't hurt to try again.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 20, 2008 11:35:46 GMT -5
A little update. Finished the metal work on the driver side fender and got down the first layer of bondo.     I started sanding the passenger fender with some 60 grit. Seemed like it took forever to knock down the bondo. I ran out of time before I could make any real sanding progress, but I'll need to get some 40 grit to move things along quicker. |
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Post by Mock1racer on Oct 22, 2008 13:07:08 GMT -5
I don't know about cuttin the sway bar, i think it would break under load. Maybe u could get another bar to replace it that was closer to the cross member. That metal is heat treated if you cut it and weld it, do yourself a favor and let a professional welder do it. it's gonna have to be done the way badblown was sayin about the axles being cut, that way there will be no porosity in metal. Also, instead of cuttin the middle out, cut the arms closer to the sterring linkage and just move the idler arm in closer. This may give you some room for the rad.
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Post by lookatme on Oct 22, 2008 19:08:11 GMT -5
IF it were ME, and its not, but if it was, i would look at extending the ends where it bolts to the lower control arms, and move the pivots up a couple inches.
i usually use a cheese grater looking tool to take all the real high stuff down on the bondo.
looking REAL good. got some nice progress there.
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