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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 22, 2009 9:50:45 GMT -5
THANKS for all the help and suggestions. I'm actually reconsidering my original radiator setup plan. New plan. I'm going to lay the radiator flat / horizontal and use the factory vents that take advantage of the low pressure system behind the car to draw air into the "engine compartment to cool the air cooled engine, but in my case it'll cool the radiator. Also, I'll build some ductwork to direct the airflow through the radiator and out of the underside of the car which, in my mind, will keep the hot air from the exhaust and engine out. Lastly, if I find myself in need of a little more air flow to radiator I'll get some deck lid stand offs. I'm thinking I might not need them because the later model vw deck lids have vents to increase air flow, or is it to let hot air out from the engine?
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Post by Mock1racer on Oct 22, 2009 11:55:50 GMT -5
I don't know who it is but someone makes a cowl to go over those vent holes to draw more air into the " engine bay" That would prevent the stand off idea because then you have water getting in there when it rains, that will cause some damage to the rad in the winter (cold rain hitting hot rad will cause cracks in the fin tubes.)
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 22, 2009 15:23:39 GMT -5
I don't know who it is but someone makes a cowl to go over those vent holes to draw more air into the " engine bay" That would prevent the stand off idea because then you have water getting in there when it rains, that will cause some damage to the rad in the winter (cold rain hitting hot rad will cause cracks in the fin tubes.) I never thought of that. Thanks for the heads up. I'm thinking this setup will work without the standoffs. It only gets around freezing temp a hand full of times during the year here in Houston. On those days I wont be driving it. I think. ;D Here's a new drawing I did of how the radiator setup should work.
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paulj
Full Member
Posts: 143
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Post by paulj on Oct 22, 2009 17:39:19 GMT -5
I also plan to motorize the top of my decklid so it opens at a set temperature to allow more air in like the decklid stand-offs do then close when the key is in the off position. Thinking of using someting like a hidden headlamp motor.
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Post by murphytj on Oct 23, 2009 9:29:14 GMT -5
I also plan to motorize the top of my decklid so it opens at a set temperature to allow more air in like the decklid stand-offs do then close when the key is in the off position. Thinking of using someting like a hidden headlamp motor. Why don't you run a thermostatically controlled fan motor?
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paulj
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Posts: 143
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Post by paulj on Oct 23, 2009 9:35:29 GMT -5
I'm planning on the fan motor being thermostatically controlled. I'll most likely use the same temp sensor to activate the relay for the decklid motor as well as the fan relay. The decklid relay power will be controlled by the ignition so it will close on 'key-off' but I plan to let the fan run until the temp switch turns it off.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 23, 2009 10:47:41 GMT -5
I like that idea Paul. I have a temp control relay kit I'm going to hook up to the fan. That would be neat to have the motorized standoffs as well. I'll see if I can't talk our engineer here at work to help me figure out how to make something like that work.
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Post by murphytj on Oct 24, 2009 8:37:56 GMT -5
I also plan to motorize the top of my decklid so it opens at a set temperature to allow more air in like the decklid stand-offs do then close when the key is in the off position. Thinking of using someting like a hidden headlamp motor. Look at the wiring diagram for Porsche "spoilers" They are motorized. I know that when my youngest son bought a new "Bug" in I think, 2000, he bought a turbo and it had a motorized "spoiler"
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 26, 2009 10:17:49 GMT -5
I got some progress done this weekend. Not as much as I would've liked. I had my 10 year high school reunion on Friday night and I had a gig the following night. I was nursing a hangover most of the weekend. Ugh...good fun though. Any who, here were are. Got the subframe for the radiator made. Here you can see how the rad bolts in. Fairly simple. I then welded it into the body. Notice the penetration on the rear clip. I then made a template for the ductwork? Basically it'll keep the hot air from recirculating with the cold air. Next I just need to make a duct to direct the air out the back of the car and which will also help to keep hot engine air from reaching the rad. Setting up the radiator leaned back rather than flat filled the area better and will be less sheet metal work that I have to do.
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Post by notchman on Oct 26, 2009 11:30:59 GMT -5
Is that a draw through fan?
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paulj
Full Member
Posts: 143
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Post by paulj on Oct 26, 2009 11:49:34 GMT -5
I believe he is running it 'Blow-through' and it will vent out the bottom. Man that looks good!
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 26, 2009 12:12:31 GMT -5
You can wire it either way, but it'll be a blow through. On the other side of the radiator will be a duct to direct hot air out and to keep it from recirculating.
Thanks Paul!
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Post by notchman on Oct 26, 2009 13:32:23 GMT -5
Yep, that's a nice job.
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Post by hellraiser on Oct 26, 2009 15:26:33 GMT -5
nice, ima cheat off ur design a lil bit haha gunna b a lil hard to add coolant though wont it?
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 26, 2009 16:25:51 GMT -5
Go for it. If you need more detailed pics of how and where it was welded up, let me know. The coolant wont be bad because I'm going to install a inline filler neck right by the intake water outlet which will be the highest point.
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