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Post by Mock1racer on Feb 22, 2010 12:14:35 GMT -5
Those series 40's sound nice, You must not have a noise ordinance in Tx. Ha! we should start a "show your blood" thread I know I've shed plenty on my build!
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Feb 22, 2010 15:09:39 GMT -5
It all depends on the cop. I have a 40 Series Flow on my truck and have only had a problem once with a cop. He pulled me over because of my "loud" exhaust, but really it was cause it was late at night in a rich part of town. Needless to say, I drove away with no tickets, nothing.
That's a great idea. I've drawn blood countless times and smashed my finger REALLY good. So much so that the finger came off and another one grew in place. Never had that happen before in my life, well, not a finger.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Feb 23, 2010 15:08:04 GMT -5
Not necessarily the most exciting update, but another thing checked off the TTD list. Rebuilt the drum brakes. Sandblasted the small parts, installed new spring kit, wheel cylinders, and shoes. The drums were turned long ago by the guy I bought my frame from. Look at that mess the passenger side made.
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Post by Mock1racer on Feb 23, 2010 15:10:23 GMT -5
Now this is stock s-10? 4 x 4? think it will hold up to the stroker?
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Feb 23, 2010 15:34:50 GMT -5
It's the stock 2wd S10 rear. It's a 7.625" rear, which is stronger than the 7.5". From what I've been told is it'll be OK as long as I don't put slicks on it. I really don't plan to keep this rear for long. I plan to put a Ford Explorer 8.8 rear in it's place after I get it on the road. The Explorer rear is a bolt in swap, comes in either 3.55, 3.73, or 4:10 gearing, but it's about 5.5"s wider and you have to drill the axles and rotors for the chevy pattern. That and I'll need a conversion u-joint. Which is OK cause then I can remove the 2" spacers I have. All which is nothing really compared to all the work that goes into making one of these things happen.
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Post by humbug on Feb 23, 2010 22:40:50 GMT -5
My 3rd Malibu had the stock 7.5" 10 bolt. It was a budget street/strip car. I put in new bearings, an auburn posi, and a used set of 4.10 Richmond gears. Ran consistent mid 12's. With an automatic trans, the rear takes alot less abuse vs. dumping a clutch at 5000+. Even with a revvy stall converter, the rear will be happier than with a stick.
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Post by Mock1racer on Feb 24, 2010 8:45:55 GMT -5
It's the stock 2wd S10 rear. It's a 7.625" rear, which is stronger than the 7.5". From what I've been told is it'll be OK as long as I don't put slicks on it. I really don't plan to keep this rear for long. I plan to put a Ford Explorer 8.8 rear in it's place after I get it on the road. The Explorer rear is a bolt in swap, comes in either 3.55, 3.73, or 4:10 gearing, but it's about 5.5"s wider and you have to drill the axles and rotors for the chevy pattern. That and I'll need a conversion u-joint. Which is OK cause then I can remove the 2" spacers I have. All which is nothing really compared to all the work that goes into making one of these things happen. I may have to dissagree with you here. Don't waste your time with the exlporer rear. stick with the chevy stuff but get the right rear end. The S-10 blazer 4 x 4 has the heavy duty ring gear, discs, and posi. Any of the old Camaro rear ends are strong if built right. If you luck up and find one a 12 bolt is as strong as a ford 9". Okay granted these may be longer wheel width but if you have already spent this much time and $, go ahead and cut the axles.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Feb 24, 2010 10:04:15 GMT -5
It would be less of a headache using a 4x4 rear cause then I wouldn't have to drill the rotors and get a conversion u-joint. The width would be perfect too cause all I would have to do is remove the 2" spacers I have now.
The thing I like about the Explorer rear is there's always plenty of Explorers or Mountaineers at the junkyard and it's easy to identify the gears and if it's a locker with the tag on the rear. They come with discs too.
When it's time for a stronger rear I'll look into the 4x4 rear as an option as well.
I think the Malibu and Camaro rears have more splines on their axles making them stronger. Don't they? That's what I recalling reading.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Feb 24, 2010 10:19:20 GMT -5
Man, it was brought to my attention I put the shoes on backwards on the passenger rear wheel. Haha. Oh well, gotta redo it. The other night I welded in my 5-point harness mounting tabs. They're 1/4" thick and I used the 6"x 6"x 1/8" plates supplied with my roll cage, that I didn't use because it's welded to the frame, to reinforce where I mounted them. Should be plenty strong considering the flooring is 14 gauge and everything is all welded into one another (body, flooring, cage, frame, etc.).
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Post by 454bug on Feb 25, 2010 0:58:38 GMT -5
Hey Matt,
You're making some GREAT progress!! Way to go!!
Everything is looking awesome.
I'm coming over for a ride just as soon as you get it on the ground! LOL!
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Feb 25, 2010 17:13:11 GMT -5
Thanks! LOL, awesome! Don't forget your helmet! ;D
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Mar 8, 2010 10:58:50 GMT -5
Still pluggin' away! Got a few things accomplished this weekend. Got the transmission tunnel and driveshaft tunnel made. I got some 18 gauge galvanized steel, cause that's all they had in 18 gauge, and a 3' section of 6" pipe. I needed something thin enough that I could bend on my own. I did take precautions to make sure I didn't get sick from welding galvanized steel. I had the garage wide open and a fan in front of my face the whole time. It also helped that it was windy out yesterday. So I cut out the steel using my patterns. For the driveshaft tunnel, I tacked the steel to the pipe and rolled the steel over it. For the tunnel, I just hand formed it over the pipe. It can out really well. My pattern was a little off after doing some additional trimming cause the floor warped slightly from all the welding. So I had to make so relief cuts to the passenger side of the tunnel to get it to fit right. It's all fully welded up and very strong. The car is a little cluttered inside at the moment cause I'm in the middle of hooking up my shifter. Just a few more things and the shifter will be finished. I also got the throttle cable and pedal hooked up. It works very well, but as you can see, it's a tight fit. The brakes are also hooked up and ready to rock! My brother came over after I got all new lines ran and hooked up, and we bled the system. It took forever to completely bleed the new system and to fix little leaks. The brake pedal is very firm and works great though. The rear brakes are stiffer than the front though. I got the pedal setup so the front brakes some in hard first, then the drums. My only concern is the rear brakes line that goes to the master comes close to the exhaust manifold. Everything is so cramped in the engine bay with this S10 frame. I'll more than likely have to wrap the exhaust by the brake line. Last but not least, I started working on the steering. I extended the shaft that goes to the steering box so the steering wheel will be closer to me and away from my knees. I just need to relocated the steering mount from the firewall to the dash bar and it'll be ready to rock. Once the steering is done and the shifter is hooked up, all there is to do to drive her around the block is to run the gas line and to make a battery box! I hoping to have video up of the first drive this coming up weekend. Then I can finally move this thing out of the garage so I can clean up without having to need 3-4 people to push it back in. LOL!
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Post by Mock1racer on Mar 8, 2010 12:25:17 GMT -5
Lookin good Matt, can't wait to see it on the road.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Mar 8, 2010 12:57:24 GMT -5
Thanks! Me too.
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paulj
Full Member
Posts: 143
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Post by paulj on Mar 9, 2010 10:48:28 GMT -5
Hey Matt, can you swap that fitting on the rear brake MC to a 90 degree fitting?
Looking great! Keep up the good work.
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