Post by tlb6oh on Oct 3, 2018 17:16:35 GMT -5
I see a LOT of people here that start with the S-10 chassis. This surprises me, because of how simple it is to weld up a frame from 2x3 tubing. With the S-10 frame, you still need to cut, grind and weld a bit, so why not just simplify it?
I gave it a shot, not knowing really what to expect, and it just about fell together. I made the main rails outta 2x3, like a stepladder, and the outriggers to hold the body out of 2x2.
I used a Heidts Mustang II front suspension for a 1928 thru 1931 Ford. This was the only somewhat pricey purchase, and I'd bet that there are plenty of cheaper versions. But I found that by stepping the frame 3", basically you can do this by overlapping the 2x3, and capping off the angle cuts (and I put a plate on both sides), the Mustang II suspension cradles the framerails and, just by chance, puts the wheels at a great height in the front fenders.
Also, the slim and tidy fitment of the rails allow some room to keep the driver and passenger seats "pretty much" in a stock looking position in the car instead of driving from the back seat.
Pics to follow...
I gave it a shot, not knowing really what to expect, and it just about fell together. I made the main rails outta 2x3, like a stepladder, and the outriggers to hold the body out of 2x2.
I used a Heidts Mustang II front suspension for a 1928 thru 1931 Ford. This was the only somewhat pricey purchase, and I'd bet that there are plenty of cheaper versions. But I found that by stepping the frame 3", basically you can do this by overlapping the 2x3, and capping off the angle cuts (and I put a plate on both sides), the Mustang II suspension cradles the framerails and, just by chance, puts the wheels at a great height in the front fenders.
Also, the slim and tidy fitment of the rails allow some room to keep the driver and passenger seats "pretty much" in a stock looking position in the car instead of driving from the back seat.
Pics to follow...