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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Aug 18, 2008 9:36:17 GMT -5
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Post by Mock1racer on Aug 18, 2008 10:24:54 GMT -5
Most definatly do a teardown & rebuild! If it's been sittin and has any dirt in it , it will cause you major probs in the end. Trust me , it's worth the extra $ to have it checked over. hair line fractures can cause the BIGGEST headaches!!! It may be okay but do you really know? Might be able to get away with a good cleaning and put it back together with no additional boring but I would still get it checked out.Good score!! Too bad you're so far from me Icould have sold you my extra 350, It's never even been broke in yet, ( picked it up from the machine shop & never used it) , it's never even had oil in it!! It's bored .030 over, line bored, balanced,decked and every thing in it is brand new. 385 lift cam 240 duration , it's not radical but it's a good street motor.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Aug 18, 2008 12:12:49 GMT -5
I was thinking about just cleaning all the carbon build up off the top of the pistons with the pistons @ TDC, scrubbing the block with a brush and hot soapy water, and then take the whole thing down to the car wash power wash it really good. Then I would wipe it clean until nothing was showing up on the rag.
But you're right. That's the best thing to do. I've already got some Clevite 77 cam bearing and brass free plugs for the block. I'm hoping my minimum expense will be cam bearing / plug install, magnaflux, decking, and hot tanking.
I want this motor to last so might as well do it right.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Aug 18, 2008 12:15:30 GMT -5
That's pretty much what I'm needing too, what you mentioned, well, but with a beefier cam.
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Post by Mock1racer on Aug 19, 2008 10:10:10 GMT -5
After you wash it , coat it inside &out with some 20w 50 oil so you don't get any surface rust. Also, make sure you blow it out real good before the coat to get all the water out. Sounds like you're makin some good progress, how's the rest comin along?
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Aug 19, 2008 11:04:32 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice! It's coming along pretty smoothly. I haven't had much time lately to put into work on the body since I've been messing with this motor and making the swap. I'm going to put the motor aside until I get a little more money to get the rest of the parts I need to build it. I'm going to continue finishing the body work so I can move onto rebuilding the chassis. I want to be done with sanding / making a mess before I build my engine so it's not sitting there under plastic in hopes it doesn't collect dust. Once the body is done I'm going to buy a 10 point cage from S&W Race cars and weld that in for protection and to make the frame more rigid. Then I'll tear down the chassis, wire brush all the rust off, paint with some rattle can chassis paint, install all then new parts I have sitting in a box (breaks, fresh spun rotors, bushings, ball joints, etc.), and put her back together. While I have the body suspended I'll install the motor and tranny for ease. Which reminds me that I've still got to rebuild my th350. Work, work, work, but enjoyable work! Once it cools down a little here in Houston I'll make a lot of progress in a short amount of time. That's been my main set back, doing body work in 100ยบ+ heat.
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Post by Mock1racer on Aug 19, 2008 12:37:44 GMT -5
I feel ya ,98 here plus 90% humitity. gonna b busy when I get back from UK.
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Post by hellraiser on Aug 19, 2008 22:07:06 GMT -5
ya its been arround 110 here buy only arround 40% humidity, but no matter how u look at it, it sucks lol
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Post by illwill on Aug 29, 2008 23:43:24 GMT -5
I've been getting some practice welding this week to prepare for the task of welding the two frame sections together this weekend. I've been using 6011 and 7018 rods to practice with, but yesterday I took a piece of scrap metal to the engineer hear at work that I had welded together to see if we could break the welds. It passed, the metal broke around the weld. He also brought to my attention how well the 6013 rod works. I practiced with that rod yesterday at work and at home a little and it welded smoothly, nice looking beads, and the slag chipped away nicely. Does anyone have opinions about welding rods. I'm familiar with the 60 and 70 numbers on the rod being the tensile strength (60,000 lbs per inch, 70,0000, etc.) and the third number being weld positions, but I'd like to hear from someone's experience. I hear 7018 is the best rod to use when doing frame work because of it's tensile strength and appearance, but for me the 6013 is easier to use and has just as nice looking of a bead as the 7018. I know this is forever down the line but for future reference, the 6011 and 6013 are good base rods and the 7018 are good tie in rods, meaning you lay your first bead with the 6011 or 6013 and then clean it up and use your 7018 as a tie in pass, the weld will be extremely strong if proper penetration is reached. But all in all your build up is awesome, been contemplating one myself just need to get rid of one project that lost my interest very soon before i take on another one.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Sept 1, 2008 23:00:34 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice! I did get a similar suggestion on another forum but from I recall they were saying to use 6011 for their penetration factor. I'd more than likely use the 6013 cause they're just easier to work with, for me.
Thanks! What project were you working on? Well, if you decide to build a V8 bug you've got plenty of examples how to do it on this forum. Take a look at each one and see which suits you!
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Post by lookatme on Sept 1, 2008 23:28:48 GMT -5
ya its been arround 110 here buy only arround 40% humidity, but no matter how u look at it, it sucks lol fixing to be on the dry side of the hurricane.............. the hotter the better
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Sept 1, 2008 23:36:28 GMT -5
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Sept 1, 2008 23:37:55 GMT -5
Also, found out my older bro has a mig welder with gas hook up. Sure will come in handy when I start doing the firewall, floor, and trunk.
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Post by Mock1racer on Sept 2, 2008 9:03:22 GMT -5
Lookin good !! always handy to have some help!!
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Sept 2, 2008 10:11:39 GMT -5
Thanks! It sure is. It saved me about 3-4 hrs. time. He pretty much took car of both of the hoods / lids. Got a little small bits to shape then I can move onto the rear fenders. I'm ready to finish the body work already.
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