V8 Super Beetle Project

[V8 Super Beetle]

Last night I finished disassembling the chassis. What a DIRTY mess. The front of the frame is caked with dried up mud. I've got a lot of cleaning and sandblasting of small parts to do. My plan is to hopefully power wash the frame this weekend and I'll sand blast some parts here at work.









I went to autozone to see if they had a ball joint separator to rent and I didn't realize how many great tools they have to rent. From piston ring compressors, oil pump primers, etc. Lots of tools I'll need and almost bought. I'm glad I didn't buy any tools right away. I will end up buying a good valve spring compressor from summit cause the one autozone has isn't all that great.

More later...

[bugfreak39]

could you tell me what kinda chasis u r using. do i have to cut or shorten anything on it. im just wanting 2 know cuz im doin the same thing to my '73 super beetle kinda except 4 makin it a pro-street drag car that is street legal though. if u could tell me and let me know id appreciate it. thanks.

[V8 Super Beetle]

Feb 20, 2009 13:41:56 GMT -5 bugfreak39 said:

could you tell me what kinda chasis u r using. do i have to cut or shorten anything on it. im just wanting 2 know cuz im doin the same thing to my '73 super beetle kinda except 4 makin it a pro-street drag car that is street legal though. if u could tell me and let me know id appreciate it. thanks.

The frame I'm using is a 94 S10 frame. I did have to shorten it between the wheels, up front, and I had to relocate the rear shackles and cut the rear down to make it all fit under the bug body. What kind of budget do you have for a frame / chassis?

[V8 Super Beetle]

OK, so by this weekend I had "Johnny 5" disassembled and the frame and suspension parts were ready for a good wash. I called up a couple friends to see if they could help, but as usual they were busy and I had to figure out a way to do it solo if I wanted to get anything done.

First I had to widen the distance of the center blocks so the frame could slide out which required some thinking. I need to put the good old 2x3 boards under the car again to keep the body suspended. I lifted one corner at a time and slid a couple small cut pieces of wood under the body. This allowed me to slide the lumber under the body and so I could move the stack of center blocks out. Needless to say this was a tedious process, but I got it done safely.

Next, I had to find a way to load a 400-500 lb car frame in the back of my truck solo as well. I ran a board under the back of the frame, put my floor jack under the board and jack it up so the rear could roll. While crouching I had to lift the frame "horns" and slowly pull the frame out. Wasn't too bad, just required some thinking.

Then I had to get it in the bed of the truck. I lifted the front of the frame into the truck and pull it in just enough to get past the lower front suspension arm mounting points so nothing was dragging. I call the jack again, put it under the front cross member so it could roll, and I lifted the front of the frame and rolled the whole thing forward. Pain in the arse, but I got it done. The drive to the car wash was right down the street so I didn't have to go too far.




So as I was power washing the frame I need to flip the frame over so I could give the underbelly a good wash. As I rolled the frame on it's side while still in my truck bed the frame got away from me and landed on the side of my truck bed. Put a nice soft ball dint in the side, it pounded the corner right above my right rear light taking off a section of paint about the size of a golf ball, and it put many scratches in the paint. All I could do was get pissed for a moment and say oh well.

Here's the frame upside down after all that mess.




So I again had to flip it over with about as much luck as the first try and took the washed frame and parts home. Now it was time to get the frame out and back into the garage, but this time upside down so I can finish up and redo some over head welds that didn't turn out so great. I had to once again figure out how to flip the frame and get it under the car without dragging it. My creeper helped out a lot cause the gas tank mount sat on it nicely lifting the rear up. So the whole thing rolled under the car without hardly any problems.




I know it doesn't seem like I got a whole lot accomplished, but I did manage to get all that done solo. I also, ground away all the bad looking over head welds and began welding. Hopefully this week I can finish welding, get some parts sand blasted and move closer to getting the frame in paint.

[Roadrunna]

;D Nice one.

It's really coming along now. Shouldn't be too long

[V8 Super Beetle]

Yeah, shouldn't be too much longer. How's your ride coming?

[Roadrunna]

lol you don't wanna ask

I took it all apart.

Bit of a crappy pic



I'm going for it again except this time i'm going to be building it on a hefty solid jig and measuring properly ;D

[V8 Super Beetle]

I thought it looked pretty good. I guess the measurements were a little off? Are you going to start from scratch?

[Roadrunna]

Pretty much. I've still got the rear rails to use and all the suspension etc.

For the £60 it's gonna cost me in steel I figured it was worth starting again rather than it being too late and having everything welded in.

To be fair, the frame wasn't "that" much out by eye. I'd just not put enough thought into what I was measuring off and stuff to begin with.

This time round it's all going to be done to meet UK drag racing regs as well so that I can race if I want to in the future.

Knowing what I know now I don't think it's gonna set me that far back anyway

[V8 Super Beetle]

That's not too bad. At least you'll get it done the way you want and be happy with it.

[Roadrunna]

Yep, I've learnt loads through doing it wrong this time so it should all be good next time ;D

[V8 Super Beetle]

Update...

Over the past couple of weeks I've been taking care of the underside welding and have finally finished. Not much to really photograph change wise. Hopefully this weekend I'll get the chance to pull the frame out from under the car, clean up the floor, and begin painting.

I also received some more parts and tools that I ordered. Cam bearings, rod bearings, main bearings, rear main seal, piston rings, valve spring compressor tool, blocks plugs, a set of cleaning brushes, etc.

Also, I was able to find the factory stamped suffix codes on the front passenger pad of the block. Anyone know what these numbers mean?

12S231437
F 0313OKB


Last but not least I got the piston parts numbers off the top of the pistons.

TRW L3022F
.030 (which I already knew)

I was able to find out the specs on these pistons:

L=Forged in the part number
Compression height is 1.535.
Pin height is 0.927
Ring sizes are 5/64 5/64 3/16


All I've got for now. More to come hopefully soon.

[darrinoddiebear]

Your local parts dealer should be able to tell you what they stand for;year,build location,motor size, etc. if you cant find Ill call afriend bagk home and find out for you

[V8 Super Beetle]

Thanks for the reply. I was able to find out that the F means Flint plant (where it was casted). 03130 means March 13, 1970. Couldn't find any info on the KB letters, but it denotes the vehicle it came out of. The 12S...# is the serial number.

[31coupe]

There is a website thatgives very good code info for SBC engines.

www.chevy-camaro.com/chevy-camaro-engine-codes.asp

This will give the plant, flint; date,march 13. the last three digits are the suffix code-OKB does not show up in the list, however, CKB & DKB do show up. maybe a misread?

CKB= 72,73 or 74 350; DKB= 86 350

maybe this will help