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Post by hellraiser on May 7, 2009 12:57:17 GMT -5
so what did u end up doing?
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on May 7, 2009 13:16:55 GMT -5
so what did u end up doing? I moved the rear back on the leafs. I plan to make some of these out of some of the left over 5/16 steel I used to reinforce the plates my roll cage will mount to.  I'll also have to have the blocks machined to fix the pinion angle from moving the rear back. No problem. Between the move back plates and the knock off Caltracs it sound be nice, sound and hook decent. I'll probably take off the bottom overload spring to soften the ride in the rear a little more. That and the rear isn't centered on them so once I torque the u-bolts it'll make the overload springs point down a little from being pinch slightly on the other side.  |
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on May 8, 2009 16:18:15 GMT -5
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Post by hellraiser on May 8, 2009 21:28:56 GMT -5
lookin good
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Post by darrinoddiebear on May 8, 2009 22:39:48 GMT -5
Looks nice
Looks like where you removed rear window vents turned out real nice also
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on May 9, 2009 0:17:37 GMT -5
Thanks. They did come out pretty decent.
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CMD
Junior Member
Posts: 72
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Post by CMD on May 9, 2009 2:15:16 GMT -5
Here's a few pictures of the size on my garage, per RaidMagic's, request and some shots of how the black vette wheels look.
The car looks good. The front wheels will make it just right..... I like the stance. How much clearance do you have now under the rear shock mount? After looking at the Caltrac mount again; I don't think you could shorten it much without creating a bind.
CMD |
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paulj
Full Member
Posts: 143
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Post by paulj on May 9, 2009 19:05:35 GMT -5
Do you have room to put the 'Cal-Track' type bar on top instead of under the spring? Mount it off the top of the axle where the most rotational force will be.
Car looks fantastic!
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Post by hellraiser on May 10, 2009 23:52:54 GMT -5
you could also do a type of 3 or 4 link but just the top links maybe a wishbone
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on May 11, 2009 13:24:38 GMT -5
Do you have room to put the 'Cal-Track' type bar on top instead of under the spring? Mount it off the top of the axle where the most rotational force will be. Car looks fantastic! Thanks! I believe so. If it's getting too close to the ground I'll have to design something similar. Thanks for the suggestion hellraiser. I just might use that idea if I have no room for the caltrac knock offs. |
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on May 11, 2009 13:51:37 GMT -5
A little bit of Bad and Good News...kinda. ;D So I started taking the short block apart this weekend. I got far enough that I noticed some play in the #1 piston rod. I knew right away what it was and I didn't even bother to check cause I trusted the guy I traded motors with. Lesson learned.  The BAD:So the rod bearings spun on the #1 and #2 rod journals. It seems as though the engine wasn't ran long which is good cause there's minimal wear. The crank looks like it'll clean up with a .020 or .030 grind. To get the 355 rotating assembly back to spec it'll take grinding and polishing the crank, having the assembly balanced, and either new connecting rods or machining to get them back to spec. After all those costs it'll probably be cheaper just to get a new rotating assembly balanced and ready to drop in from the manufacturer. The Good...I'm thinking about just bumping up my motor to a 383 ci. The cost of new parts and or machine work will be well within the range of a new 383 bottom end balanced. I've also been looking into just getting new set of Speed Pro dished 4.030" hypereutectic pistons with a 1.425" wrist pin height, a new 3.75" Eagle internal balance crankshaft, and buying two replacement connecting rods. I found a whole set of 8 for $20 (stock set). I'll just upgrade the connecting rod bolts to APR. Then have the whole assembly balanced. I already have new piston rings bearings, flexplate and damper that'll fit an internal balance 383 crank. The cost will be less as well. I did the math and with 12cc dish pistons, the .015 shim head gasket, 64cc heads, and a .021 deck height I'll be right at 10.27:1 CR. Which will be fine with the vortec heads cause you can get away with .5 more CR and still run pump gas.  I've got some thinking to do, more saving and selling of parts.  So the building of my engine has been put on hold for another month at least until I save the cash and have decided which direction to go. I should pick up about another 40-50 hp and tq though so that's good. I'll see if I can't get someone to desktop dyno my combo as a 383. |
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Post by hellraiser on May 11, 2009 17:32:42 GMT -5
ya that realy sucks..
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paulj
Full Member
Posts: 143
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Post by paulj on May 11, 2009 22:12:28 GMT -5
Man, sorry to hear that about your engine. Get a matched set of rods if you can. It will make the balancing job much easier.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on May 12, 2009 8:55:20 GMT -5
Yeah, but oh well. I've really wanted to build a 383 and now I'll get to do so and it's justified.  Just curious about balancing. I know the rotating assembly is balanced using a balancer / computer that tells you exactly where to drill / remove or add to the crank to balance everything out. Tomorrow I'm picking up a set of rods from a stock 350 for $20. I'm going to sell the .030 over forged pistons to help pay for some 1.425" compression height pistons which will work with a 3.75" crank and 5.7" rods. That'll put me at a 9" stack leaving me .021-.025. .025 being if the decks haven't ever been cut ( I can still see the factory stamping). I'm thinking about buying this crank and these pistons. store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=STL-H859CP30store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP-103503750IThe crank will drop right in a 350 and you can used a 350 roller chain, flexplate and damper. What I'm trying to do is save a couple hundred $$$ and also keep from having to send the balancer and flexplate back to Summit. My question is being that this crank is a neutral balanced (internal) couldn't I balance the assembly myself using a scale, weighing each piston and balancing each one within 2-4 grams, same for the rods using this method...? www.angelfire.com/ca4/CorvAIRCRAFT/RodBalance.htmlwww.angelfire.com/ca4/CorvAIRCRAFT/RodBalance2.htmlI've got the time to balance these things myself. Money is another story. I called the machine shop and they said it would be about $250-$275 to get the assembly balanced. So that's putting me back in the $700-$800 in which that case I'll just buy a balanced assembly ready to drop in. I'm just trying to save the headache of shipping parts back to Summit as well as save a couple hundred $$$. What do you guys think? |
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paulj
Full Member
Posts: 143
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Post by paulj on May 12, 2009 9:16:32 GMT -5
Of all the engines I've ever built since I worked at the engine shop and since I've left we only balanced 4 of them and they were all race engines. I think if you bring the weight of all the components to 2 to 4 grams you will have an engine that will live a long life and be closer to "Balanced' than any factory engine. For a street engine I never bothered.
Now if your plans are to squeeze every bit of HP and spin that engine to some super high RPM then you probably want a shop to do it for you.
The shop I trust in Houston is Houston Engine and Balance near Hobby Airport. Tommy Costales has been running that shop for a long time.
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So the building of my engine has been put on hold for another month at least until I save the cash and have decided which direction to go.