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Post by Mock1racer on Jan 5, 2011 12:09:34 GMT -5
Sounds good. I see what you mean about the orange peel. Just don't sand too far and break through the clear. It's tough to know when to stop with orange peel. Take some 600 grit and give it a few passes to level it out some. I wouldn't completely take out all of the orange peel cause you may risk sand through. This would be the best thing to do since you plan to have it color sanded and buffed. Try using some reducer mixed 4:1:1. It'll help the paint lay a little flatter. Also, what are your gun settings at? What brand gun? It could just be your settings and movement speed. Looking good!!! Thanks Matt, What I did on the last coat, was 400 the really bad spots, then scotch brite everything else, then wash it really good, then reduce the clear. But I didnt go 4:1:1, I did like a 4:1:.5. I read back through your thread like 20 times but couldnt find where you did that, if it's there, is missed it. Also, I dont know about the settings? I ended up using the 1.4 from Harbor frieght for everything. The gun I got from Summit crapped out after the first two coats of primer.
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Post by Mock1racer on Jan 5, 2011 12:35:07 GMT -5
Well, After getting the paint on, time to start getting stuff together for the rear end. Got out the rear housing... Put the studs in after a good chemical cleaning... Installed the axles again, just to make sure i got my numbers right... Assembled the pinion and rear yoke with all new bearings and seals... Nice shiney polished gear... Installed the ring on the spool, and set in the cradle, mounted and centered... Make sure to put some lithium grease on the bearings... Richmond 389... Started off with .031 but that wasnt enough, so ended up putting in another .005... this is why...
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Post by Mock1racer on Jan 5, 2011 12:42:40 GMT -5
The dark lines at the bottom of the tooth are where the pinion was hitting, too far down the gear, needs to be hitting the middle of the tooth, so another .005 shim went in and it hits just right.
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Post by Mock1racer on Jan 5, 2011 12:54:49 GMT -5
Got the third member set in the housing to check the alighnment on the axles, and ring gear... Once I got that done, I reinstalled the pinion with the shims, for a total of.036, and got it all tightened up, then pulled the third member out... Rechecked the torque on everything internal, then put it together and torqued down the stud bolts, and touched up the nuts and bolts with Black... Brakes were never takin apart from the teardown, just a little cleanin and they were good to go. the unit as a whole spins really well and there is minimal backlash in the gear, and by minimal, I mean there is about .010 gap between the gears.
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Post by Mock1racer on Jan 5, 2011 12:57:25 GMT -5
Oh, and the Lucas on the table is on ALL the bearings in the rear end. This helps them stay lubricated until its on the road and put under a load. Rolling around in the garage and the driveway dont count as a load.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Jan 5, 2011 17:08:29 GMT -5
Looks awesome! Those new gears will make it really haul.
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Post by Mock1racer on Jan 6, 2011 8:24:35 GMT -5
Thanks Bro!! That's what I plan on! ;D
Anybody see anything out of place in that last pic?
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Jan 6, 2011 11:23:25 GMT -5
Uhm, is it the fill plug?
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Post by Mock1racer on Jan 6, 2011 12:19:16 GMT -5
Nope, On a 9" Ford the brake wheel cylinders are on the top of the backing plate, When I rebuilt the 9 I was doing it upside down and set the backing plates upside down. I found this out when I went to put the brake lines on. Good thing, when I went to take them off, I found the axle seals were pinched and cut from the assembly. They would have leaked gear oil all over the tires,(not good) So now I gotta find new seals, which means finding the right year of this rear end.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Jan 6, 2011 14:40:47 GMT -5
That sucks! At least you caught the problem before hand.
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joe
Junior Member
Posts: 55
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Post by joe on Jan 6, 2011 20:54:11 GMT -5
Types Of Nine Inch Axle Housings
1967-1973 Mustang/Cougar - light duty, thinnest housing material, small axle bearings, 28 and 31 splines. 1957-1968 passenger car and 1/2 ton truck - medium duty, stronger than Mustang type, 28 and 31 splines. Ranchero/Torino - heavy duty thick wall housing, 3.25 inch diameter axle tubes with flat tops. 1969-1977 Galaxies (coils), Lincolns (coils), and late pickups (leaf)- 3.25 inch diameter all the way to the backing plate, coil housings have upper control arm mount
How To Recognize Nine Inch Housing Centers
1957 - no dimples, flat center band up the center of the rear cover, bottom drain plug. 1958-1959 - two dimples on back of housing, flat center band, some had drain holes. 1960-1967 - two dimples, flat center band, oil level hole in back cover. 1963-1977 Lincoln, LTD, Thunderbirds had 9.375 inch centers, housings were cut away at the gasket surface for ring gear clearance, one curved rib at the front top portion of differential, strong but no gears.
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Post by Mock1racer on Jan 7, 2011 7:26:55 GMT -5
Thanks Joe. That's great info. My 9" is from a 73 F100 4x4, 1/4" housing, true 9" gear, and seals that are really hard to find. I went to about six different places to find some.
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joe
Junior Member
Posts: 55
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Post by joe on Jan 7, 2011 21:42:39 GMT -5
No problem anything for someone that actually finishes a project ! lol
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Post by Mock1racer on Jan 7, 2011 21:53:44 GMT -5
Far from finished.
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Post by Mock1racer on Jan 18, 2011 11:55:57 GMT -5
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