|
Post by Mock1racer on Jan 6, 2009 10:06:13 GMT -5
Hey CMD, you think you could show a shot of the rear upper and lower control arms and how the rear axle is setup? I like your foot wells, i might try to do that in my interier, I'll be sittin father back and need the extra room for the pedals. I wasn't sure how to make it work and the way you got yours done that might work for me.Thanx for the pics.
|
|
|
Post by badnblown69vw on Jan 6, 2009 16:17:19 GMT -5
The wheel wells on cmd's bug looks like it would make for a pain in the ass to change spark plugs and whatever else you would need to do past the 6 and 5 cylinders. if you take a look at mine youll see I dont have near as big foot buckets but still have plenty of room and the seat isnt setting back much further then the original seats did. I guess it depends on your frame design as to what room you have to work with. since I Made My Own Frame I was able to make alot more room for myself when I was building everything. I guess you got to do what you got do to with what limited space you got. I think the s-10 frame really cuts back space for you guys that are using them frames but maybe not.
|
|
|
Post by Mock1racer on Jan 7, 2009 9:54:59 GMT -5
That's 1 of the issues i'm tryin to work out, being able to do maintenance on the thing. It would be easier if i had plans, or if i had more experience with car frames. I'm tryin to gather as much info from everybody as i can so i can mix em in to mine.
|
|
|
Post by V8 Super Beetle on Jan 7, 2009 12:56:33 GMT -5
I think it would be cool if you made foot wells like CMB, but made them so that you could unbolt them or remove them for easy access to the engine. Looks like if your was setup that way you could easily do a tune up from the thingypit. Maybe it could have hinges so the fire from where you tranny frame / structure stops, could fold back. You could add some weather striping to seal it off. Know what I mean? Just an idea.
|
|
|
Post by Mock1racer on Jan 7, 2009 13:50:03 GMT -5
Yeah, i thought of that too, I.m workin on it. I got a big peice of 3/16" aluminum for the firewall just gotta cut it ,figure out how to hinge it/ seal it. let u know.
|
|
CMD
Junior Member
Posts: 72
|
Post by CMD on Jan 8, 2009 0:39:28 GMT -5
What are your clearances around the headers and other engine components? How will you get to the sparkplugs on the 7 & 8 cylinders? I can't give you exact dimensions; but I can tell you that all the clearances were determined by whether there was enough room for me to do any necessary work. I do have small hands though! The sparkplugs are really not a problem. I can't find a picture to give the true perspective. CMD
|
|
CMD
Junior Member
Posts: 72
|
Post by CMD on Jan 8, 2009 0:49:53 GMT -5
Hey CMD, you think you could show a shot of the rear upper and lower control arms and how the rear axle is setup? Does this help? The rear and suspension are only temporary as they were all I had at the time. CMD
|
|
|
Post by Mock1racer on Jan 8, 2009 7:43:32 GMT -5
Yeah, thanx those are great shots.
|
|
|
Post by Mock1racer on Jan 8, 2009 10:15:57 GMT -5
Both you & Badblown use a ladder bar setup, how well DOES it work on the street? I want to use a 4-link, should I use a LB because of the HP i'm runnin? It will see more trac time than street time, but I don't want it to be hard to drive on the street. But on the other hand, I want ALL my power to go to the ground and want the strongest rear I can build for the strip.
|
|
|
Post by badnblown69vw on Jan 8, 2009 12:03:06 GMT -5
Hey Mock. I Have no Issues with a Ladder Bar setup, we run a 3 link suspension on all the hot rods and race cars we build. They will take any hp you wanna through at them and you can get them double adjustable like mine but ou dont get as much adjusability as you do with a 4 link. but Traction is not a problem with ladder bars. The car is not hard to drive on the street it just rides alittle rougher ride then a 4 link. but that all depends on what shock spring coilover you use on the rear. you will have no problem getting the powe to the ground as long as you got the motor setting half way decent back the car alittle bit and some good tires. Alot of people say you gotta run a 4 link suspension to go fast and get traction but that is not the case at all, if you know anything about suspension and tweaking it, then it will work. Its the same way with People running 7-8 seconds on a 10.5 tire. everyone says aw that wont work or I cant get it to work, its impossible or whatever but theres plenty of people out there doing it. Like I said if you know suspension then you can get the car to hook on dirt. I am so Amped up for spring so I get my car out and do some cruising. ;D
|
|
|
Post by Mock1racer on Jan 8, 2009 13:00:24 GMT -5
Thanx! ;D I think i like the LB setup and because i have'nt made anything yet,that may be 4 me ;D Yeah i can't wait to eat the mustang next door
|
|
|
Post by V8 Super Beetle on Jan 8, 2009 14:54:17 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Mock1racer on Jan 8, 2009 15:05:44 GMT -5
That's enough for me!
|
|
CMD
Junior Member
Posts: 72
|
Post by CMD on Jan 9, 2009 0:10:00 GMT -5
Both you & Badblown use a ladder bar setup, how well DOES it work on the street? I want to use a 4-link, should I use a LB because of the HP i'm runnin? It will see more trac time than street time, but I don't want it to be hard to drive on the street. But on the other hand, I want ALL my power to go to the ground and want the strongest rear I can build for the strip. The ladder bars will work fine. I've put over 12000 street miles on my '61, first with cheap non- adjustable coilovers and a panhard bar, and then with a set of adjustable Koni's( a friend gave me from a modified stock car), and a track locater. Either combination worked well, street or strip! The '61 has run 10:30's at over 130 in the 1/4 with the fuel injection out of wack. CMD
|
|
|
Post by Mock1racer on Jan 9, 2009 7:32:18 GMT -5
That's perfect!!Thanx a lot!!
|
|