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Post by notchman on Oct 8, 2009 15:13:55 GMT -5
Hey Tom, I saw on one of your threads someone asked you about the measurements on your front crossmember. I can't find where you've answered so if this is duplicate I appologize. Can you please tell me the measurement from hub to hub? I see that you are using a prostreetbug frame. Are you using their front suspension package too?
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Post by murphytj on Oct 9, 2009 16:00:09 GMT -5
Hey Tom, I saw on one of your threads someone asked you about the measurements on your front crossmember. I can't find where you've answered so if this is duplicate I appologize. Can you please tell me the measurement from hub to hub? I see that you are using a prostreetbug frame. Are you using their front suspension package too? ???I just have the pro street chassis. I installed my own front and rear suspension. I am using Mustang II front sispension. What kind of rear end are you going to use? I am running a narrowed 9" Ford,4:11, triangulated 4 bar. Transmission is a 700R4 with a B/M shift kit. I'm using a Lokar shifter. Power is from a sbc 350/330 hp
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Post by notchman on Oct 12, 2009 14:13:43 GMT -5
What size of Mustang II front end did you use? Is the hub to hub measurement 56 1/6"? Or did you have to narrow it even further to avoid stretching out the fenders?
Thanks
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Post by murphytj on Oct 12, 2009 17:21:07 GMT -5
I used a standard rack and pinion with 5/8" narrower (than stock)tubular control arms.
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Post by murphytj on Oct 17, 2009 16:22:59 GMT -5
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paulj
Full Member
Posts: 143
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Post by paulj on Oct 20, 2009 12:03:08 GMT -5
That's some great progress. Looks very clean.
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Post by murphytj on Oct 21, 2009 10:57:28 GMT -5
Here are some pics of my glass front end that some of you have wanted to see.
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Post by Mock1racer on Oct 21, 2009 11:29:22 GMT -5
That's gonna be bad @$$!!
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Oct 21, 2009 11:52:35 GMT -5
Looking really good Tom!
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Post by murphytj on Oct 26, 2009 19:34:50 GMT -5
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Post by notchman on Oct 27, 2009 8:27:21 GMT -5
I see what you mean about using the pan. This is a great idea. The way you're doing it is a great idea in getting around the pre-made outriggers of the chassis you bought. Are you going to add some steel to the outriggers or do you think the floor sheet metal will support the body enough down the sides? Or is the body supported in the front and back making the sides a non-issue?
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Post by murphytj on Oct 27, 2009 18:54:36 GMT -5
Thanks for the comments, I have 18 gauge channels that I made for my seat bracketry that will add additional support to the floor. Also, the body will be mounted to the chassis both front and rear.
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Post by 70fastback on Nov 26, 2009 10:22:17 GMT -5
Murphy,
Interesting choice on the rear suspension. What are you going to use the car for?
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paulj
Full Member
Posts: 143
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Post by paulj on Dec 28, 2009 13:30:00 GMT -5
I read about your idea for the bolt down floor unit and the rino-lining in Matt's thread. I like the idea of having the floor a separate unit. I've seen several cars with the rino-liner on the bottom and it was very nice. I t will cut down on road noise considerably. One word of advice. Be careful how the exhaust is routed and use heat shields if you need to.
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Post by murphytj on Dec 28, 2009 15:17:57 GMT -5
Thanks for the input. Yes, I plan on using stainlell steel heat shields. Went in the garage today to do some more figuring on the side arear, back end, of the body. As I stated, the floor, both front and rear, will be bolted to the chassis as one unit. It will kind of look like a tub with the body off. The body will be mounted to the chassis both front and rear in 6 locations. Once the body is put in place, the front floor will bolt to it in its original position. As far as the rear goes, that is what I am working on now. Should really not be to much of a problem though. I am hoping to have all of this fabrication done by next month. Then it will be time to take the body and set it on some sawhorses for awhile so I can do my exhaust, brake and fuel lines, etc. I'm really taking my time on this project. ;D
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