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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Jun 25, 2010 14:54:27 GMT -5
Looking good! Not to say your dad is wrong, but that's not true. The 350 has a standard bore of 4" and a 400 has a 4.125" bore. The largest you can bore a 350 is 4.060 which isn't even close to the 4.125" bore of the 400. The only REAL difference in the 400 block, other than cranks stroke and bore size, is it has steam holes. Google "400 steam holes". The same heads that would bolt up to a 350 will bolt up to a 400, but you would have to drill steam holes. 400 blocks are getting harder and harder to find. I would get that engine assuming it's not cracked or doesn't have any spun bearings. You can ways punch out a 400 to 427 ci.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Jun 25, 2010 14:55:00 GMT -5
Talking about using what you have. Do you have room to push the chassis out from under the body?
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Post by matt123 on Jun 25, 2010 17:03:54 GMT -5
yeah i didnt find anything else i could use but it works im gonna get some 4x4s soon to put under there and some more saw horses. but no it didnt lift it high enough to roll it out yet. i did do some research on the 400 block and i came up with the 4 bolt main is weaker because of how close they drilled the hole on the block. and the reason that they have the repution of over heating is beacuse people would try and put new heads on them and not drill the holes or they would put the wrong gaskets in them. im not too worried about it tho. id still buy it. im just gonna look at it really good before hand. ill see how that turns out.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Jun 25, 2010 22:00:47 GMT -5
I would've done the same. I'm sure if you post your chassis on craigslist it'll be gone soon and you can make some cash to help pay for that engine. There you go. The "problems" with 400s are, as you have found, from user error. Gotta have the right gaskets and steam holes in the heads. I'm sure they work fine if they're built right.
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Post by matt123 on Jun 26, 2010 9:01:30 GMT -5
im really exicted about that 400! im gonna try and sell some stuff to try and get some funds for it. im gonna try and run to lowes later and get some saw horses and stuff for the body. ill be able to get some pics of the chassis on here after that. to be honest tho it looks in pretty rough shape. i do have a transaxle for it but the car didnt come with an engine. i was told it caught on fire.... so hopefully ill be able to get something for that?
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Post by murphytj on Jun 26, 2010 10:57:55 GMT -5
I can tell you a cheap, inexpensive way to build sawhorses ;D
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Post by matt123 on Jun 27, 2010 14:18:06 GMT -5
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Post by Mock1racer on Jun 27, 2010 15:27:48 GMT -5
Looks like youre off to a good start. Solid body car,very little rust, and it seems to have no major damage, good score. Just to put my two cents in, The 400 will make a great powerplant IF it isnt already bored out to the max, cracked, or solid poured. (I found one that was poured cause the guy runnin it didnt run a cooling system, it was a race only engine)You will spend some $ either way you go but can get 700 Hp if you build the 400 right. As far as the trans goes, stick with the 350 turbo. I'm using one and it was built with all Hughes performance parts and is capable of holding 650 Hp all day long. The chassis will be a real challenge to decide on because of your skill level, money and where youre building. The S-10 frame will be the best bet in the long run cause as stated it will be cheaper for parts. If you go to a tube chassis, then you need to figure suspention, steering, rear axle,and a whole list of parts that you wont think about when you get started. At least with the S-10 you will start with a rolling chassis that you can start bolting stuff on to, with minimal tools. And when you do get done with the build,and your cruzin down the highway, something breaks or goes wrong with the S-10 stuff, you will be able to stop at ANY parts store and get a replacement. Cant do that with some custom parts. Everything on my car is made by me so I'm screwed if something breaks, I'll have to make that part again. Just some food for thought.
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Post by matt123 on Jun 27, 2010 15:51:42 GMT -5
thats a very good point. i plan on being able to run to my parents place when its done and there about 4 hours away. the more i look at it the more im thinking that the s 10 frame is going to be the way to go. im just having trouble finding one around here??? but its just gonna be alittle while to save up enough for tools and parts. i think a welder is gonna be my next step but there proving to be WAY out of my price range. but all in good time im gonna look for another job to save up for this project. That 400 would be amazing to have. so thats first on the list. just curious but how can i tell if it is bored out too far? and solid poured means they filled in cooling ports? i kno the standard bore on a 400 is 4.125 so how much is too far?
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Post by 70fastback on Jun 27, 2010 17:45:19 GMT -5
The 400 Chevys are getting hard to find in good shape. Typically these engines run hotter than a typical Chevy 350. The bore is a 4.125 which can be bored out to a 4.185. However I wouldnt recommend boring a 400 out that far. They are weak in the webbing area of the block. If it is a 4 bolt it will be even weaker, however this depends on how far you wanna push the package. There is a couple of different ways you can check into the bore size. You will need to take one of the cylinder heads off. Scrape the junk off of the pistons, there will be some writing that is etched into the metal. It will say STD .010, .020, .030, .040 and .060. This will tell you what bore it has. The problem with this is IF the owner will actually tear into the motor before you buy it. If there is no pistons...you need a bore guage or you can take it to a machine shop to check the bore. GL with it.
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Post by matt123 on Jun 27, 2010 18:39:25 GMT -5
the engine i was looking at is complete and is a 4 bolt. so i plan on at least asking if he minds me taking a head off. ill probably bring a micrometer to check myself. so if its bored out to .030 over? say no?? ive heard the 4 bolt mains are weaker so im kinda concerned, i dont want to go and try to build this engine if its going to explode on me. and i do plan on puttin my foot in it from time to time.
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Post by Mock1racer on Jun 27, 2010 19:43:07 GMT -5
Tell you what, Iv'e got an extra 350 at home that I dont plan on using for anything. It's never been run after the rebuild. It's bored .030 over with a 447 lift cam, but it's only a two bolt main and the heads are off H.O. 305 Monte Carlo. Compression is like 10:1. Everything in the motor is new except the crank, it just got a regrind. Line bored and fully balanced, makes right at 400 Hp. I have everything but the intake, carb and exhaust. Balancer, flywheel,starter,water pump, distributer, plugs, wires, pulleys, fuel pump( but no pushrod) and even a stand.
I also know where there is a short wheel base S-10 for sale here thats not on craigslist.
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Post by V8 Super Beetle on Jun 27, 2010 20:38:01 GMT -5
Off to a good start! Don't sell yourself short on that pan. It's looks to be in rough shape, BUT the major parts look solid from what i can tell. The pans / floor boards can easily be replaced for about $89 a side. The whole thing just needs sandblasting and a rebuild. I wouldn't sell it for less than $150.
I agree. See if they'll let you pull a head so you can see how big the bores are. If it's bored .040 over I wouldn't get it. That means it can only be machined one more time. Going .060 over on 400 causes more problems than it's worth. .030 over is fine. It would be ideal if it was STD or .020 over. The motor would have lots of life left. Even then you're talking a chance without being able to hear it run. You could see if he'll go done on the price since you can't.
It's a good thing to have another v8bugger so close by. Sounds like a deal on the 355 Chris has. The S10 chassis would be worth looking into.
Decisions, decisions.... This is probably he hardest part of the build. Where to go and hunting for the parts.
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Post by 70fastback on Jun 28, 2010 7:36:02 GMT -5
I would not buy the 400 motor unless it is under .030. As far as the engine coming apart...depends on your power goals. They can live for a long time if they arent pushed to their limit. The pan would be perfect for resell. Sell the pan to buy a welder or the engine or whatever you wanna buy for it!
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Post by 70fastback on Jun 28, 2010 7:38:51 GMT -5
btw if you wanna drive "4 hours away" I would be looking into what gears you are going to use and what tranny you have in mind.
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